HAPPY BIRTHDAY COCO

"A girl should always be two things: classy & fabulous!"

Today marks the 134th Birthday of Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel - a name which everyone who hears it will instantly associate with fashion and the culture of being "chic". Gabrielle had a curious beginning, one which has been questioned, theorized and analysed when she was alive but much more since she passed in 1971. There could be countless blogs, books and films made about her myth's, so many of which she created herself to conceal her true identity and lineage, but nevertheless, her name is and always will BE fashion itself. Her brand and name is one that has lived for decades and will remain to do so.

Fashion is Chanel. Chanel is Fashion.

Chanel was unique in terms of being a couturier, and utilizing her famous monochrome colours of black and white (and hints of masculine tailoring) she revitalized the fashion industry when she opened her first store in 1909. She purchased the whole building of 31 Rue Cambon in Paris, (unusual for an up and coming designer - but was backed by an infatuated rich supporter) an address which still has her iconic interlocking C's above the name. This was where some of her most famous little black dresses, jewelry, and perfume - including No.5 - was born out of her creation. A haven for fashionista's and a place which has the mesmerizing and infamous mirrored staircase, utilized by Coco so she could watch and view her creations being modeled for her private clients. in silence and sprayed daily with No.5 so that nobody would realize she was there watching them. A queen of fashion sitting upon her throne as she watched the many worshipers of her style and talent, paraded in a harmony of elegance and chicness. 

Her romantic life also gained notoriety for Gabrielle, especially when she came to London in search of love with the Duke of Westminster (one of the wealthiest, if not THE wealthiest men in England),  introduced to her in the circles of the Prince of Wales and Winston Churchill. The affair lasted 10 years and his affection, which was renowned and criticized In the press for presenting her with vast luxuries and gifts, was something that had a lasting effect on her fashion. It was with him that along the way she began using British Style in her own work and was inspired to create trends based on old English traditional clothes such as using tweed and masculine tailoring in her suits. When she was asked later in life why she did not marry the Duke when she had the chance she simply replied: 'There have been many Duchesses of Westminster, there can only be one Chanel.'

However, the biggest love of Chanel's life was the handsome and talented English polo player Arthur 'Boy' Capel. Chanel had met him the same year she was to open her first salon/shop on the Rue Cambon, where Boy (as he was affectionately named by Gabrielle) sponsored her financially and gave her the faith, hope and ability to launch her brand that still exists today. His love of tailored blazers he wore all the time around Coco is what inspired her to create the now iconic and irrefutable 'Chanel Look': a twin set suit that comprised of a structured woolen jacket and fitted skirt, whereby the jacket is collarless, fitted with a metallic set of buttons and usually a opposing colour on the trim to utilize her much loved monochromatic look. Even when Boy was 'made' to marry the daughter of Lord Ribblesdale, (due to an aristocratic tradition of children being sold off for marriage) they continued their affair up and to Boy Capel's tragic death in a motorcycle crash in 1919. As you can imagine, this shook Chanel to her core, and she never got over him.

It was in the 1920's when Chanel invented the Little Black Dress that her name and status really took off and when one of the most expensive and famous perfumes in history came about in 1921 - her iconic and ultimate classic scent of No.5. Created by her own personal perfumer Ernest Beaux, he gave her countless samples to try and her gut instinct was the fifth sample, for 5 was her favourite and lucky number. Thus, an icon all in itself was placed against her name and famous suits, dresses and signature bag's with the quilted padding. She could now venture into cosmetics, giving women the ability to complete their Chanel look with classic red lips, a flutter of dark lashes and a flawless complexion. She was truly becoming an international phenomenon, whereby when people think of french style and fashion they automatically think of Chanel. 

The perfume that started it all was revolutionary as Gabrielle chose to use only white flowers as the notes and then utilize aldehydes as a major part of the system that has made the perfume so long lasting. More than 50 years on, it still causes people to be on the fence as many find it too strong, others only have it for odd occasions, and then there are some who cannot get enough of it. Most famously one of these lovers was Marilyn Monroe - who was found dead tragically 55 years ago this month with a bottle of No.5 next to her bed -

"What do I wear to bed? Well Chanel No.5 of course" - something else that made Chanel become cemented in popular culture.

In her later life Coco resided at her own suite at the Ritz in Paris, where she died in 1971. Since her death, Karl Lagerfeld  (an icon of fashion in his own right) has taken over as creative director and designer at Chanel, and has been able to retain her style and elegance ever since. The use of her favourite flower  - the Camelia has found it's way into almost every piece of Chanelwear - most notably in her jewelry which sometimes hits the market on prices that only billionaire's could afford. There have also been, since her death, various films made about her, some including Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky in 2009 which was based on the controversial account that she had a long affair with the famous Russian composer - even though it has been debated whether it was true. Perhaps the most well known film about her legacy is Coco Before Chanel which stars the beautiful Audrey Tatou as Gabrielle in her younger years (ironic how much she actually looks like her) and how she entered high society to a wealth of clients for her own fashion inspiration, as well as her love affair with Boy Capel.

(Highlights from the Autumn/Winter Couture 2017 Collection)

Regardless of myths, legends and rumours about Chanel and the company's founder's life and loves, it can never be taken away that the brand has become the identity of chic and a paradise for anyone who wishes to attain a certain Parisian look that is timeless and classic. Other designers from the same period simply could not do what Gabrielle could, and that was dress women as women and not try to be something it wasn't. She believed that one did not simply look at a woman in a Chanel dress, they looked at the woman herself. This is something Karl Lagerfeld has never ceased on bringing to the brand since he took over in 1983. His take on her iconic suit, dress, jewelry, perfume and everything else have never been nothing but Chanel, the style that is forever elegant and chic - and like Coco once said:

"Fashion fades, only style remains the same"

(Further highlights from the A/W Couture 2017 collection designed by Karl Lagerfeld)

Images courtesy of: Vogue

Illustrations from: Megan Hess

Photos of Chanel taken from Google.