"A form in space"
To start our new series of blog posts entitled 'Faces of a Generation', we thought, why not start at the very beginning with the first supermodel - Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn.
Born Lisa Bernstone in a town called Uddevalla, Sweden, to parents who were both doctors, Lisa grew up amidst the typical Scandinavian landscape of fjords, mountains, lakes and forests. Her parents were very cultured, and enjoyed taking Lisa on trips around Europe, to visit the museums and artistic spots of the capitals. Something that may have sparked her interest in the likes of fashionable places such as Paris and Milan.
All photos by Horst. P. Horst ©
'The eyes are the window to the soul' by Fernard Fonssagrives ©
There, she studied under Mary Wigman, who believed in the pscyhologcial aspect of dancing and the movement of the body in a space, something that contributed to Lisa's development in how she become comfortable and confident with her body. Even posing for nudes, which at the time, was quite controversial, though these were always done with almost sculptural 'Grecian' form by the likes of Horst. Nevertheless, Lisa then went onto studying art and sculpture and moved to Paris, and at the same time enrolled in a classical dance course - ballet.
It was when she lived in the French capital, that Lisa met her first husband - Fernand Fonssagrives. He was her dance tutor but soon swopped her off her feet (no pun intended). For all that romance, misfortune crept upon Fernands career and it was prematurely ended. Whilst on holiday, he was injured in a diving accident, and of the understanding he would never dance again, and left bed-ridden, he soon had a new interest and hobby come into his life. Whilst he recuperated, Lisa gave him a Rolleiflex camera, thus introducing her husband to his new career - fashion photography. Many years after they divorced, Fernand later went onto become of the highest paid photographers in New York.
The stars may as well have been aligned, as fate had both he and Lisa find misfortune turn to advantage. As with accident and illness led to a new life for both of them. With Fernand's new photographic eye, he began taking photos of his wife, turning her into the words first supermodel. They both soon began touring Europe, as the glamorous artist and his muse.
Lisa by various photographers © copyright reserved.
Never wanting to let the dancer inside of her fade, Lisa was well known for quoting, in regards to her legacy, as 'modelling is just still dancing' - for she recognized modelling as a means to use her body in almost static still life form... yet with the graceful ease of a trained dancer. Moving her body in the ways of a classical ballet, that poise and decorum from being trained by the Mary Wigman school, helped make her appeal on the front cover of magazines and as a muse to photographers.
While in Paris, in 1936, she was discovered in an elevator, of all places, by Willy Maywald, a well known photographer of his day, and he asked her to model some photos for French Vogue. This is just one of the many typical stories attributed to how supermodels were 'discovered', whether it be Dovima as she walked a Manhattan sidewalk window shopping, or Dorian Leigh whilst she worked on cheesy B-Movies at a film studio set. It was with these mythic stories that helped make these supermodels mystique seem to give them a veil of almost untouchable quality.
Like most "myths" Lisa's discovery has been questioned and mis-quoted over the years, but regardless, it became her big break. When Willy sent his photos into the offices at Vogue, it was the infamous Horst. P. Horst who saw them and wanted to test her in some of his own photos. Thus starting her career with Vogue.
Vogue Covers from 1940 - 1952. © Conde Nast
It usually takes one photograph to cement a supermodel and her career and influence on the public. If its Amber Valetta 'Angel in New York' series by Peter Lindbergh, Cindy Crawfords infamous Pepsi advert, or Naomi Campbell riding Elephants and racing Cheetahs by Jean-Paul Goude - there is generally a photograph or series of them that comes to mind with a supermodel. With Lisa's blend of still-form dancing, and European sense of style, it seem perfect that she would be pictured at the Eiffel Tower by the renowned Erwin Blumenfweld.
The classic image of her precariously dancing on the edge of the magnifcent structure in 1939, helped become a new image of romance for Paris, prior to it's occupation. With this iconic image, her career as a model had really taken off. She soon began travelling the world for the likes of Vogue and Harper's Bazaar, and was photographed by the legends of their day - such as Man Ray, George Hoyningen-Huene, Richard Avedon, and as mentioned previously, Irving Penn - the man whom would become her husband.
By the time Lisa crossed the Atlantic and arrived in New York in the 1940's, Time magazine reported her as being "the highest paid, highest praised and highest fashion model in the business", something she didn't necessarily let go to her head. She would sometimes refer to herself as "just a good clothes hanger", and always remained that she saw herself as a dancer, not a mannequin or a model. Nethertheless, her legacy was also cemented again when in September 1949, she appeared on the front cover of Time, the first model in the world to do so.
The classic image of her precariously dancing on the edge of the magnifcent structure in 1939, helped become a new image of romance for Paris, prior to it's occupation. With this iconic image, her career as a model had really taken off. She soon began travelling the world for the likes of Vogue and Harper's Bazaar, and was photographed by the legends of their day - such as Man Ray, George Hoyningen-Huene, Richard Avedon, and as mentioned previously, Irving Penn - the man whom would become her husband.
Published in French Vogue, May 1939, the now iconic image of Lisa dancing on the edge of the Eiffel Tower - with no health and safety in those days, by Erwin Blumenfeld. She said at the time 'For some reason this sitting didn't worry me at all, I was young, strong and athletic.' © Copyright Conde Nast.
By the time Lisa crossed the Atlantic and arrived in New York in the 1940's, Time magazine reported her as being "the highest paid, highest praised and highest fashion model in the business", something she didn't necessarily let go to her head. She would sometimes refer to herself as "just a good clothes hanger", and always remained that she saw herself as a dancer, not a mannequin or a model. Nethertheless, her legacy was also cemented again when in September 1949, she appeared on the front cover of Time, the first model in the world to do so.
The front cover story of Lisa for Time magazine, 1949 © Time Inc.
In New York, Lisa discovered that modelling was a much more structured and organised business than it was back home in Europe - which was more relaxed and liberal, especially in terms of nudity and expressive freedom. She enrolled with one of the leading agencies, John Robert Powers, and began advertising for well known brands such as Tresemme and Kramer.
But something happened that in 1947 that would changer her life. In that year, Vogue commissioned the exceptional and well-respected Irving Penn to take the now famous image of 'The Twelve Most Photographed Models in the World'. This was the first time Lisa and Irving met, and upon this meeting he sweetly remarked: "I loved her when I first set eyes on her."
The set where one of the most famous and brilliant photographers of the day, met the worlds first supermodel and future wife.
'The 12 Most Photographed Models' ©. [take a deep breath] the models being: Meg Mundy, Marilyn Ambrose, Helen Bennett, Dana Jenney, Betty McLauchlen, Lisa Fonssagrives, Lily Carlson, Elizabeth Gibbons, Muriel Maxwell, Kay Hernan, Andrea Johnson, and Dorian Leigh. (Many of these we have featured on our Instagram)
According to sources at the time, the 'intensity of their feelings for one another had to be held in check', especially as Lisa was still married to Fernand at the same time she was sitting for Penn. It is unknown if a somewhat glamorous move-like affair took place, but for understandable reasons, Lisa and Irving did not see each other for another 2 years afterwards.
After this, it was inevitable that Lisa's marriage to Fernand was not going to last, and due to Lisa growing restless with shouldering the burden of greater responsability, finacially and work wise, they divorced in 1950.
Lisa by FAR LEFT: Clifford Coffin, BOTH MIDDLE TOP & BOTTOM: Frances McLaughlling-Gill, FAR LEFT TOP: Richard Rutledge, FAR LEFT RIGHT: Horst P. Horst, FAR LEFT BOTTOM: Louise Dahl-Woolfe. copyright reserved ©.
After her divorce to Fernand, Lisa began working with Penn once more, and after many sittings, their romance soon returned and developed, naturally, into marriage. Penn held his wife on a high pedestal, quoted as saying "She taught me so much, and not just about fashion." It is clear they both adored each other, and this shows when she returned to Paris and he began photographying her for the haute couture season for designers such as Dior and Balenciaga.
All photos by Irving Penn ©.
Soon after their marriage, in 1952, Lisa gave birth to their son Tom, and only returned to modelling interminttently. However, her creative urge was not diminished, and she began designing her own fashion in 1953. Though she was greatly admired for her designs, it is a highly competitve industry and she never was able to sell her clothes in the same marketting gap as the giants of couture of the 1950s.
Though her days of being a dancer and model were soon behind her, Lisa did not give up on her artistic sensibilities, and began sculpting at their house on Long Island in her own studio. She also began painting, and in 1968, and into the 1980's, she became the subject of exhibitons of her work and won the praise of New York's tough art critics.
All photos by Irving Penn ©.
Lisa's career may have ended by the time the early 90s came, however, her legacy was and still has remained iconic. Not just because she was the first 'supermodel' and set a standard for how models can become household names, it was because she was of a time that is now lost. She seemed to fit within the right sort of contrasting parisian-cum-new yorker sense of sophistication, which was the mode for the day.
Sadly, the glamour and elegance of the 1930s, 40s and especially the 50s - has now gone. But, the reason why I admire Lisa so much, is because, when you look at her life, it was one of pure talent, timing, and creative genius. She knew what was right for her at the right time. She knew how to take the lessons she learnt and apply them to her craft, whether that be modelling, designing, painting or sculpting. She is also admired for having a career in modelling remain so long, when many models of the time, and even now, generally last a few years. Lisa was still able to be in demand for thirty years.
With many of the models of the same period known for being divas, or getting ahead of themselves and turning to other 'showbiz' routes - Lisa always seemed to remain humble and modest. She said, of her own aesthetic and legacy later in her life that - 'The shape of sculpting express's my feelings. It is a mysterious and joyful process for me. When I look back, I can see I was a sculptor all my life. It is the same process with my body, and I didn't think any different when I was being photographed - I was a form in space.'
Lisa and her husband Irving Penn, Lisa in Rochas 'Mermaid Dress' by Penn, © and Lisa with Penn and their son Tom.
This has been an honour for me, personally, to write this blog dedicated to Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn. I am very passionate about the world of fashion, photography and the models, especially from the thirty year period I spoke about.
It is also an honour to write this in dedication to Tom Penn, who has been gracious enough to give his appreciation and gratitude to our tribute to his mother and father, via our Instagram.
Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn
1911 - 1992.